Leather and oud go together like king and crown, and there’s no sweeter spot between the rustic allure of Ensar’s artisanal—often mad—oud world and popular perfumery than this oudilicious addition to the cuir tradition. A rugged aroma that makes you wonder if Hemingway just lit up a Cuban, or if Churchill’s in town.
After 15 fragrant years, I’m finally taking off my jungle jacket for a tie, to dive headfirst into my debut spray parfum. And I approach perfume the way I do oud distillation. That’s why No 1 is composed of the rarest, most expensive ingredients in all of perfumery. It’s why you get copious amounts of top-shelf oud, including Qi Nam Khmer – one of the incense-iest Cambodis ever distilled, a deep woody tinge of Maroke oud, and the peer to Oud Sulaiman III, an incredible seven years aged, wild Nagaland oud to jack up a generous dose of Santal Royale.
Not only is this the highest quality oud fragrance that has ever been produced in spray-format, the entire composition is infused into a high-concentration, genuine raw ambergris tincture instead of just plain ethanol. Similar tinctures of this kind sell for around £400 for 30ml… here, it's already included.
Maroke Agarwood Resin, Lavender, Rosewood, Siam Wood, Nutmeg, Castoreum
Wild Cambodian Oud, Himalayan, Turkish, French and Edward Rose, Jasmine, Tolu Balsam, Civet
Wild Aged Nagaland Oud, 1970s Red Mysore Sandalwood Distilled by EO, Ambergris, Vintage Papuan Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Ethiopian Frankincense
I’ve literally been called stupid for insisting to use such olfactory gems in a perfume. In fact, most critics advocate using synthetics exclusively. And I see their point. Why sacrifice rare rose and oud instead of synthetics that are 100 times cheaper? Not to mention—and this is a staple argument—you never have to worry about reproducing the scent! (i.e. it’s scalable, so you can sell a lot more.)
I insist on these insanities because to me, and people like me, there IS a difference. You smell low-grade or lab-made oud (a.k.a. the ‘oud note’) and all you can do is laugh at how it’s being compared to real high-caliber oud. Most can’t even tell, but to any oud novice the difference is red and blue.
For my first spray perfume to be a leather fragrance, my OCD would never let me live without showcasing it in… leather. So, we teamed up with THE leather man: Habib Dingle. The man behind the St. John’s Bible project, and the hand who bound the Pope’s personal Bible. Easily the greatest living leather artist, he works old-school with a steel chisel, not a photoshop file. Naturally, Habib doesn’t even look in the direction of pleather or touch even fine top-grain leather. That’s why EO No 1 comes showcased in naturally tanned, pure full-grain Italian calf hide.
You’ll exude wafts of a tobacco-heavy, old-school leather jacket aroma with an unmistakable Don Corleone kiss-my-hand-compagno esteem. Subtle, but not soft, with a base that's all oud and vintage horse-saddle leather.
I soaked up the feedback we received after No 1’s launch and improved where folks felt it could be better, rounded off some edges some felt were a bit rough, and introduced a couple of new ingredients to the ensemble that add tenacity and longevity. And a few tweaks to this new Pure Parfum edition makes it even headier. The result is a stronger composition that lingers longer… but doesn’t overstay; louder sillage, with a gentleman’s discretion.
No doubt, No 1 is not your typical Extrait de Parfum. It’s not supposed to be. I wouldn’t dream of topping the master cuirs that came before, nor do I subscribe to modern ‘industry standards’ of how long, how loud, and how far. This is an indie cuir that’s limited and niche, where I simply wanted to add an OUD-inspired rendition to the legacy of Cuir de Russie et al, and offer perfume lovers the chance to experience just how amazing and exalting a fixative Artisanal Oud can be. In EO No 1, you pass third base to smell Oud & Leather drunk and in love, in a parfum that’s a first in a vibrant cuir heritage that’s been turning top hats and making hearts melt for decades.
Some like their perfume strong, others prefer 'em mild. To accommodate both tastes, we're offering two concentrations: Eau de Parfum and Pure Parfum. The Pure Parfum comes in a bottom covered leather case, while the EDP comes in the clear bottom edition, both in the new EO black box! Select your choice from the drop-down menu.
I have a collection of niche perfumes but I’ve never smelled anything like EO 1. — Alamgir, UK
Let me say how happy I am to have these perfumes. Firstly because they are a wonderful return to the art of the real. It was such a joy to try them and to experience something other than the generic fumes that masquerade as perfume these days.
Then the pleasure of travelling through the different and sublime layers of each one and to experience them also with a backdrop of burning chips of Vietnamese wood.
I am in love with the wonderful animalic fixatives, particularly the civet in EO No 1. When I was a boy growing up in Malaya, I had a civet cat as a pet. These animals really do smell deliciously sweet and the same scent echoes in the dry down.
Then to follow through with the musc in EO No 2!
You know, for the first time in a long time I have people asking: “What is that beautiful cologne?” And then to be able to reply, “It is NOT cologne!”
Many thanks, Tuhan Allah, for instilling such craziness in Ensar. — Nicholas, Australia
Jazzakallah Khayr, I received the package in good time Alhamdulillah. Just want to say mashaAllah the presentation of EO1 is superb, I love looking at the bottle and admiring its craftsmanship, its such a great work of art. As for the perfume, my initial reaction was influenced by my oudy expectations which wasn’t the right approach as this is a perfume with oud inspiration. I then gave it time to grow on me and now am glad I have a bottle. It’s now an overall beauty to me, the intense rosy scents at the beginning that settle to subtle oud notes work great for me especially wearing it out. Its longevity is great and projection is not overpowering, I wore it today and easily went for the duration of my work. – Fatih, Australia
I really like EO1. It’s similar to SLA but it’s not as intense. The rose and leather blend so well together and it stays longer. There are some other notes I haven’t quite pin pointed just yet. Subhanallah it’s an amazing fragrance. I have to wear it a few more times. It stays on all day long. I stopped wearing colognes ever since I discovered oud… till this one. – Nazif, USA
I received it and what can I say... I’m pretty new in the oud game. Before buying EO1 I read about it, read about you. Subscribed to your YouTube channel. Followed you. And I watched all I found about you. I thought I couldn’t go beyond niche perfume. I have some oud from Abdul Samad and Arabian Oud and Ajmal and Abdul Karim al Faransi. They all smell wonderful. But what I just experienced is just crazy. So much depth and sillage! I am happy to have crossed your path in my fragrance journey. The sad thing is, now I won’t enjoy my entry level perfume collection. – Waleed, France
The pure perfume is something amazing. I have a collection of niche perfumes but I’ve never smelled anything like EO1. – Alamgir, UK
I’ve just received the new pure parfum tester of EO No 1 and, after just two sprays, I am totally in another world. You have created not only a thing of beauty but also something that is so spiritually uplifting, so magical, that upon smelling it I am at a loss for words to describe exactly what I am feeling, what it is doing to me. I purchased three on the strength of your second release of the scent—the EDP version—which I purchased blindly. But that one was the one that got me hooked. I’ve worn many perfumes, scents, but none of them have affected me so strongly as that one. THE ONE. I fell in love with it, so much so that I hurriedly went and got a hold of three grams of Sultan Leather Attar. And that one… amazing. – Steven, USA
SOTD: EO No 1 pure parfum. Simply amazing. After a long time trying all kinds of oils and perfumes I can say that this work leaves me speechless. It is of very high quality, and the essence itself is brilliant. Oud and leather are dominant, drydown is celestial. Thank you Ensar Oud for making this jewel. – Oscar, Spain
I was able to test EO No 1 Parfum and I enjoyed it much more than the original EDP.
The EDP is quite lovely, but on me it's primarily an oud with facets of leather and appears more or less linear. However, the parfum amped up quite a few different notes in the composition and has a very satisfying evolution as well as being prismatic. I get a mossy powdery lemony (I guess a facet from taif rose) lavender in the opening that reminds me of Jean Patou Ma Liberté. And this time the leather becomes an individual note like a more plush cuir de russie, instead of being a facet of oud like in EDP. The dry down sees a musky oud-y leather with a campfire-like smoky undertone, but softened by the tender rose and fuzzy moss.
Wearing EO No 1 Parfum reminds me of the excitement when I first smelt Ottoman Empire. They're of course not similar at all in their olfactory profiles, but how these two manage to mesh oud, rose and moss together in a harmonious yet kaleidoscopic manner is very impressive! – Stella, France
The scent is something truly fit for a king. I write, poetry and anything that sounds like it. The only medium that I or anyone else has is life. I just try to document it as I see it… with a little bit of style. So, when I come across true works of art, I tip my hat, and try to learn something from it. You guys are truly doing it. – Steven, USA
I’m sitting in a cloud of No 1, and 3 people in five minutes asked about my “cologne” while I’m waiting for my haircut. They all loved it! I think the whole experience from the box, the bottle, wood top, and the way the stunning leather is tooled with the E, O, No. 1 and Ensar Oud is truly a work of art worthy for installation at MOMA. Then, you spray the scent and it’s a magical elixir of strength and sensitivity. – Jerrold, USA
I like EO No 1, even though I never had the pleasure of smelling Sultan Leather Attar, sadly. Further, I am not fussed with packaging, yet the leather cover around the bottle is exquisite – stunning – cherishable. – Supratik, USA
On sampling the EO No 1, it immediately brought a memory of a scent I smelt when we met at last year’s OudFest in London. It was definitely not from any of the oud oils that I sampled, maybe it was worn by yourself or Ensar at the time. EO No 1 is absolutely magnificent and I love everything about it. – Siraj, UK
I just keep getting more excited about it just seeing the photos with Ensar and the Leather expert. Just a phenomenal package. It should win a Coty Award. Then, what’s inside is truly the prize!! – Jerrold, USA
Dear, I have received the masterpiece. The casing is superb, Italian fragrant leather (I am Italian and acquainted with our leather quality). It smells superb. The “juice”: I clearly detect Musk and flowers. The Ouds comes at dry down stage. You don’t use Rose only, I detect tropical flowers. – Ruggero, Italy
You have captured that vintage leather Jacket smell so brilliantly. It’s amazing how you were able to bring that smell just by using Oud oils. Now I see what vision you have for each product and how you use your skill and expertise to ‘exactly’ achieve that end result. Fantastic stuff! – Ramanan, India
I really like EO1. It’s similar to SLA but it’s not as intense. The rose and leather blend so well together and it stays longer. There are some other notes I quite haven’t pin pointed just yet. Subhanallah it’s an amazing fragrance. I have to wear it a few more times. It stays on all day long. I stopped wearing colognes ever since I discovered oud.. till this one. – Nazif, USA
EO1 is top notch! Very elegant! – Alan, Brazil
First off, congrats on EO #1 and #2. They are addictive, and they evolve in such interesting ways. I’ve found myself using them both before work, and after work, and especially on the weekends. I’ve also been using them on my jackets, shirts, and even my pillows! I love the leather on the bottles and it’s become a ritual to smell the bottle deeply before using any of the EDP. Aroya Kyaku, the new one, goes well with both of them and I sometimes wear them together. EO #2 is like nothing that I’ve ever worn. It really changes into something very personal, doesn’t it? It’s perfume as entertainment, both of them are. I watch a film, I listen to some music, I wear EO #1… They all get the imagination firing in different ways. We all know that feeling of coming home after work, and choosing the film that will be perfect for your mood, or the day that you’ve had. And the film helps you make sense of your day, it gives you something to reflect on. It’s the same for me with your oud. It’s so much fun. – Matt, USA