The opening is a smoke grenade of dark, earthy-incense high-altitude Maroke oud.
To capture a ‘smokey’ tone, perfumers typically go for birch tar, burnt frankincense, or the like. Of course, ‘smokey’ here doesn’t = incense chords or heavy oudy notes.
That’s why in those compositions, tar and acrid burnt notes dominate, and it’s why you’d inevitably fail to find a true smokey attar, where smokey = resinous incense vapor. Why you’d always end up with an echo of ash instead of deliciously heated agarwood chips.
Inspired by the oud attar Black Changho (sold out), EO Black doesn’t smell of ash or burnt-black gum. Instead, walls of resinous incense waft around you courtesy of artisanal Papuan oud steeped in vintage Timor sandalwood, finished with a splash of patchouli to compliment the earthy drydown.
"I am a forest a forest, and a night of dark trees: but he who is not afraid of my darkness, will find banks full of roses under my cypresses" – Nietzsche.
There are few brands that could be considered for "Holy Grail" of Artisan Perfumery. Ensar Oud is one of those brands.
If you talk to artisan perfume collectors from all over the world, you will hear the brand from almost everyone.
For a lot of people, Ensar means an end of a journey, or better said, a completely new look onto perfumery. Perfect grade oud distillations, special blend attars, and powerful spray perfumes you won't find anywhere else. Complex and beautiful.
So let's talk about one of the new Pure Perfumes from Ensar Oud, EO Black:
EO Black opens with a cloud of dark, resinous, and little peppery smoke. Its darkness floats through the air and catches you. It will transport you to another place; it's powerful, dark, and yet so comforting.
This is not birch tar smoke you will get here. This is dark, resinous, natural incense.
After some time, the incense takes a minimal step back, so you get a hint of the other notes. PAtchouli settles in. Giving the smoke an earthy and leathery extra twist.
Wood notes will start to show more and more. Minute by minute, the scent gets more complex. Showing so many different facets.
Don't think the new added notes will change EO Black to a 'brighter' scent. Those notes turn it even darker.
This scent is powerful and dark. EO Black is a really dark resinous incense syrup to wear on and for yourself. Don't get me wrong. Others will smell it as well.
The projection is strong and the last time I did wear it, I could smell it even the day after I wore it.
For me, it's so comforting, also somehow classy and boosts my well-being every time I wear it.
There is no darkness without light!
Ensar opens you a whole new world of satisfaction.
EO Black is such an amazing scent. The most wonderful Incense I have ever smelled. It's so powerful and relaxing. It transports you to another place. It's such a dark scent somehow, but still it also gives you such a bright feeling.
Almost a little bit of Ying and Yang. – Dennis, Germany
I have no words to describe EO Black, I’m sorry. Smell is wonderful, I just don’t know how to describe it... my smoky perfumes are very different from this! I guest the note my nose reacts to here is most likely the sandalwood! Absolutely beautiful juice and very different from your usual Smokey notes... – Nordine, France
I’m my opinion red, green and black are some Ensar’s best work. They’re easy to wear. Full of depth. Complex but with enough simplicity that the materials truly sing.
EO Black is all about bubbling frankincense and Oud. The composition is simple enough that you can easily distinguish each phase of the drydown. It’s well blended and has the right amount of smoke. It feels like an outdoor bahkoor session.
I feel like the Red/Black/Green trio showcases an entirely different side of Ensar’s perfumery and it’s a side I hope he explores more. I had a very special moment today upon spraying EO Black and realizing how transportive the incense note is and the way Oud and sandalwood sing a beautiful harmony. It’s easy for any perfumer to hide behind massive amounts of high quality raw materials but it takes true talent to create the perfect ratio of simplicity.
EO Black reminds me of Japanese incense in a way that I haven’t seen many describe before. There’s a subtle peppery spice and comfort from an almost coniferous frankincense accord that truly feels like you’re standing in a temple of sorts. I get hints of castoruem laced Oud that brings about an elegant textural quality that would be lost had this composition contained a single molecule more.
Simplicity takes great skill and courage to perfect yet in my opinion is so much more rewarding when the materials are showcased beautifully. Exquisite blending lets each stage transition masterfully without falling apart or feeling thin. I was going into EO Black a skeptic and left the experience a true believer. – Aaron, USA
I feel like I’m just starting my fragrance journey even though my love of fragrance started when I was very young, partly because of fragrances like these. EO Black is ethereal in its ability to showcase multiple stages of incense without any of the overused and lazy burnt birch tar effect. This fragrance is completely ethereal and transportive. That peppery note you describe washes in and out for me in a tug of war with a certain gentle sweetness I can’t put my finger on yet. It seems 2021 is off to a heck of a start in giving 2020 a run for its money. During these dark times fragrance has been a welcome and needed vacation for the senses and the soul. – Matthew, Italy
Meditative smoke at its finest. – Chris, USA
EO Black opens with thick syrupy resins covering you in darkness.
Like molasses, it washes over you in a thick dark, dense wave of scent.
Black oud, smoothed and polished… resinous no light no flickers of aromatics just dark bottomless resins and oud sucking you down like quicksand.
There is something old and ancient, dense sacred woods, ancient rituals, and a myth long forgotten.
This mid starts to pulsate from within as vapours arise, thin tendrils of smoke curling up to a moonless sky.
Sacred holy purifying incense, black spots of ou resin bubbling on a burner.
EO Black shows all facets of oud. The oil, the resin, and the burning wood. A truly fascinating accomplishment.
The mid turns leathery, a well oiled leather jacket still black at night.
The base brings a dry musky sandalwood, the resin and oud still remain.
Excellent longevity and moderate projection, the darkest of compositions in my collection. However, never acidic, never foul, still classy enough to wear with a tux.
If you've read this far, I must say I don't smokey perfumes. Perhaps it was my early experience with Amouage Interlude, I felt like I was being chocked out any time I wore it.
This is an incense perfume for those that don't like smokey perfumes. It achieves a feeling of incense using resins and ou instead of manufactured smoke and tar. Wonderful. – Ryan, Canada
Reviews of Black Changho:
Been spending a lot of time with black Chango. The name and description had me and I think price per gram wise it’s one of the best things you have and that’s saying something as I have a few Ensar oils. Other attars I’ve smelt from other brands have turbo charged the smoke too much, so it’s like burning tires with no depth and man made smelling. This Is layered, dark, natural, complex, clever smoky, just really really good. Now need to spend more time with the other oils, I find I have to wear them a lot to really understand them which is what I enjoy, lots of nuances! – Simon, Australia
This is the one that I have been waiting for.
Cement after the rain, the smell of lightning and far off thunder. The tender and mysterious old book/old shelf smell that is so good you'd want to include it on a space probe for extraterrestrials to find someday – so that they could know something about the feeling of sehnsucht and longing. Well – you can tell that I like this one can't you?
I smell the Maroke. I smell the (almost green somehow) sandal. The patchouli is there with you for a while with the Maroke, then runs to the sandal... And once you find it with the sandal it runs back to the Maroke! It also has a bit of a baked earth mitti scent in there.
For me, and I mean it, this is perfect. It reminds me of the past, but at the same time has something new and optimistic. Not optimistic in the big smile way, but in the connection-with-the-mystery way. The best way. A reminder of the mystery of life is exactly what I needed right now. A true blessing!
BC reminds me of the thrill I got the first time I smelled oud oil. What a great attar. I haven't even lit up the chips yet!! Congrats to you and the team. – Matt, USA
I am really impressed with the new attars. They are all well done. – Travis, USA