Ensar’s Ghalia is what happens when Persian rose (the most expensive rose oil in the world) gets injected with musk grains steeped in old Tongan sandalwood, enriched with super rare Haflong Indian oud, Tasmanian boronia, and a dash of pure saffron oleoresin.
To my nose, few things go better with fine rosa damascena than top-rate agallocha. And few scents marry so well with Indian oud’s spicy rooibos zest as the piquant flavor of undiluted saffron extract. The rawness of Siberian musk then gives each of these a mic to boost their lush umami and plug them into an amplifier that jacks up the whole brew.
It’s this red saffron glaze that covers the top notes and hits you with an… unusual welcoming.
A sour-sweet savory chord that smells thick, as if saffron was extracted in the same pot as the agallochas. An unexpected shadow-scent of heated oud chips wafting through pollen-rich air…… imagine using a bouquet of freshly arranged flowers as a diffuser and letting oud smoke run through it—olfactory awe.
Twenty minutes in and the deep taming sweetness of boronia starts to shine, beautifully tinged with Persian rose, while the saffron zest lingers but is slowly giving way to the musky Burmese aloes’ red spice that wraps around the luscious boronia-rose heart.
To seriously appreciate how these exquisite aromatics dance together, try this: smell backwards.
Once the reddened boronia notes start to emerge, put on a fresh swipe on another spot, then see where you are… and how you got there. (This trick reveals the fantastic subtleties you’d miss if you only smell one-way.)
Once you reach the heart, zoom in to smell how these notes were actually present from the first whiff, nurtured by the Haflong-saffron opening. Explore how that chord quiets down but never withers completely, even hours into your wear. It’s a tantalizing ride all the way.
Equally striking is what you don’t smell. Or think you don’t smell.
Oozing in the background, an earthy, cooling flush of clove and petrichor morphs the saffron-red oudy boronia-red to create a fragrance that’s a delight to be around.
Blending perfume, if you’ve tried your hand at it, can be a nightmare. Especially if you want to create a tightly-woven new fragrance, not a mere cacophony of notes where the sum smells worse than its parts.
This Ghalia aims to do just that. Let you indulge in nature’s finest smells, arranged through the prism of an Oud Man’s eye. It’s a privilege to have access to such fantastic aromatics, and a joy to share how well they flow together with you.
Ensar's Ghalia is something I'd imagine a top French perfume house would come up 60 or 70 years ago after experiencing a traditional middle eastern ghalia.
The oud used isn't barnyard and the musk isn't pungently animalic and I'm not sure if ambergris was even used, if so it's not a main player as it is in some ME formulations. It has spicy, sour and camphorous notes that give it a more human element vs the rich sweetness of a traditional composition.
The florals are amazing but it's not as rose centric, there is a lot of saffron as well. And there is a high concentration of musc, both musc and spice are the 1st thing to hit you when you open the bottle, this is definitely a musc-bomb on the order of Sultan Red Rose Attar and has the spicy cumin notes of Sultan Musc Attar and EO No 2. – Dave, USA
Ensar’s Ghalia is not only symphonic in the way Eden-like gardens all swirl into one scent, but also in the way it harmonizes both oriental and fougère into a balance point.
Yes, it is like cool smoke wisping through fresh velvety flowers, because both the light and the dark are there. It’s a scent of transformation and opposites like the sooty wings of an angel coming out of the smoke of hell or like a soul coming out of darkness where light became its North Star.
Again, bravo Ensar. – Jasim, Dubai