Crime & Punishment is pepper-spicy right from the start, tampered by the sweetness of raspberry fused with frankincense and ylang-ylang that boasts the added umami of blue lotus’ buttery warmth, all riding a chariot of oud, musk, and ambergris.
Like with that split-second whiff of alcohol you smell straight after you spray a perfume, Crime & Punishment cuts straight to raw musk…… because practically the entire carrier is raw musk tincture.
Rising through the musk, a raspberry sweetness emerges, already admixed with the musk-morphed orange blossom that creates this strange post-modern chypre.
Mimosa and coffee mingled with rose and jasmine all vape through a prism of oud and musk to form a steady tone that lasts for hours.
It’s this ‘tone’ I aim for in a perfume—hence the insane amount of fixatives. EO perfumes aren’t meant to zig-zag between notes or jump from top to heart to base. (Many perfumes finish this cycle within 30 minutes…)
You might have also noticed the composition’s conservative use of top notes.
Crime & Punishment isn’t about showing off ‘notes’. It’s not a fireworks display, and it’s not about letting you smell citrus then rose then a patchouli base. It’s meant to mold notes into a beautiful chorus that sways like waves throughout your wear.
Coriander and ginger work great with pepper to create a spicy chord that’s massively amplified by musk’s inherent earthy-spiciness. So, I don’t count these as top notes only meant to make a quick guest appearance. They’re a means to an end, and the end is Crime & Punishment’s steady musky oopmh.
GRUNGE vs. JAZZ vs. REGGAE
Musc, as in white muscs, muscone, nitro muscs, polycyclic muscs, etc. that are staples in modern perfumery are isolates and single notes in themselves. They’re not proper ‘exalting’ fixatives—synthetics now do this job.
They don’t have the transformative, exalting fusing effect genuine deer musk has. Same with ambergris and civet, the synthetic substitutes for which are simple notes, not proper fixatives or enhancers.
The same goes for oud and sandalwood, which both filter simple notes through an olfactory effects pedal. That’s why you don’t immediately pick up the orange blossom or ginger in the top notes. Not that they aren’t there, but they’ve been morphed by the copious amounts of musk, ambergris, and oud—they don’t float on top, separately from the Muscone, Ambroxide, and Black Agarwood Artificial…… preachers who dominate every pulpit.
In addition to oud, certain notes run like a thread through different EO perfumes. One of them is pepper, which I love to use, and which you’ll pick up in a few other perfumes just like you’ll hear strings in both rock and classical music—ditto for fine jasmine and rose. Of course, that’s as far as the familiarity goes. These notes are merely phantom memories, familiar notes in totally different songs.
I’LL NEED TO SPEND MORE TIME WITH THIS ONE
This is something you hear a lot, especially among oud connoisseurs.
It might begrudge people new to complex aromatics, but it’s a simple reality when digging your nose into a single fragrance that packs 100+ aromatic compounds.
The pop-frag industry trains you to look for something immediately recognizable. Something familiar. Repeatable. But like artisanal oud, niche natural perfumes like Crime & Punishment aren’t simple.
Fragheads zoom into every chord like a cinephile appreciates every transition between shots, the lighting, the choice of lens, and can watch a movie 10 times over and enjoy it more each time. Likewise, this fragrance doesn’t reveal itself in one go, as you journey with it and discover its flow and what the chords share in each new wear.
That’s why I’ve never emphasized scent pyramids. It’s a bit like telling you the band you’ll hear tonight includes a guitar, bass, and drums… and therefore you know the song. But I get how a scent breakdown can be useful, so here goes:
Aged Mysore Sandalwood
Vintage Sumatran Oud (retail value: $790/3gr)
Cambodian Oud (retail value: $550/3gr)
Sri Lankan Oud (retail value: $1,500/3gr)
Trio of Hindi Ouds: Garo Hills, North Cachar and Manipur (retail value: $550/3gr)
Fixatives and carriers:
Siberian Musk (~$30-45,000 a kilo)
Tanzanian Osyris (~$3,000 a kilo)
Beach-Combed Jamaican Ambergris (~$30,000 a kilo)
There are 15+ ingredients not listed here, nor are the ones listed ones I specifically want to highlight. There are extracts in here that are rarer and as expensive as the most precious of them, which for proprietary reasons are not listed—but are certainly smelled.
Most of the ouds, sandalwood oils, musks, and tinctures in here are our own painstaking productions, while many of the ingredients were sourced in person to check for quality.
I mention this, and highlight the prices above to show that it’s unreasonable to demand that perfume with such precious components should be sold for ‘cheap’. You’ll earn more selling these oils neat, so this is not about profiteering through my perfumes.
Once you’ve spent your days and nights and years deep diving the depths of an aromatic ocean, when you’ve passed the point of nosebleeds and olfactory coma, do you relish the extravagance of such a perfume. Some, probably most, who merely keep track of scent fashion won’t understand perfume like this. They’d be let down like Bieber fans are when they first hear the 9th Symphony’s overture, or Miles’ Blue.
Noir. Intense. Not because the labels say so, but because there’s more musk in your bottle than in all the niche and luxury perfume shelves of the world combined. More oud and amber and coffee and cedar drenched in black tea than any noir celebrity poster will ever let your nose feast on, or any bootlegger can fake.
So, enjoy a pheromonal spritz that lets raw castoreum bathed in the finest jasmines on Earth wake up a long-dormant naked attraction—not just carnal, but silage that also commands power and prestige… because fragrance once possessed such force—before musc got stripped of its K, and amber lost its gris.
Testers ship 5 March.
Everything more than perfect- C&P the start of a long dream, and the bottle really outstanding – Erhard, Austria
Crime & Punishment is Ensar's most well blended spray Parfum. Ensar has a Signature DNA and I like it. The Sandalwood, Musk, and Ambergris have formed a more Perfect Union. The Musk does not play Galactus in this one. This is for the Tantric Master who is in control of his masculine energy, and understands the yearning for Longevity. – Negus Osiris, Instagram
Crime & Punishment. I absolutely love it! I have worn it 3 times now and it smells better (also different) every time I wear it. I get a musky opening and then a sweet floral oud scent. Amazing! This will be another signature scent for me, especially once the weather warms up a bit. – TJ, USA
I absolutely love C&P. When I first sprayed it, I literally could not stop saying "wow" to myself over and over again. That burst of peppery, musky fruitiness is absolutely amazing. The raspberry note is so intriguing and interesting. And it doesn't smell like a synthetic, fake raspberry. It's very rich. The way this perfume is blended is so genius. It's honestly hard for me to pick out a lot of individual notes. A few peak their head out but as a whole its so amazing. It also has awesome performance. The sillage is great and it lasted a very long time on my skin. Over 10 hours easily. It's a fantastic addition to my collection. EO1, EO2, Tigerlust and Crime & Punishment are by far my pride and joy perfumes. There's something about Ensar's work that just hits the spot for me. – Mark, USA
Oh - how I love C & P!!! It is absolutely magnificent - captivate it does!! I'm in love with Rhapsody! And, she's still there... Mmmmmm - as for my dreamy experience with C & P!! It takes me to a place I have never been to physically. I imagine sitting around a table with hookahs (even though I've never done that before either), it's dusk. The smoke is making beautiful designs in the air. People are talking quietly, the music is quiet. And the energy is seductive. Not sexual. It's an asking of one to fall in love deeper with themselves and to listen to their heart and soul's calling of this love and respect. And to see it within every sovereign being there. It's asking for connection on a soulular level with these beautiful souls around, to see all for who they really are. TO know who I really am. To go deep! To not be afraid of my power, but to embrace it and even know that it is needed and wanted! – Cristina, USA
My C & P arrived just two hours ago. Sprayed it at once... GORGEOUS!!! I LOVE IT!! It really smells great… it touches my heart. That is what perfume has to be for me. – Annie, Belgium
I think it’s the most complex perfume I have ever tried so far. I need to understand the “tone” that is right in your face from beginning to end (and it’s a long time span, lasts for so many hours). The only thing I can say so far is that musk is the front man and I cannot drive my feelings for excluding any reference to EO2. – Ruggero, Italy
Today I sprayed C&P and I do think that it is gorgeous and sophisticated. They are all unique in many ways and yet something similar ties them all together. I am referring to EO1, EO2, TL and CP. – Danny, Singapore
All I can say is Mashallah
ما شاء الله لا حول ولا قوة الا بالله
Overall really blew me away with the depth of character this perfume has. The scent profile is unlike an other I've ever smelt and the notes or ingredients are like Br Ensar said in the description like a chorus. Mind blowing and life changing stuff SubhanAllah. Would highly recommend to all lovers of natural perfumes. – Saad, UAE
Conducting a mighty orchestration
First, I misunderstood the campaign introducing „Crime and Punishment“ for a couple of seconds because I did not realize that the name refers to the novel called „Guilt and Atonement“- that’s the way how the German first translation was titled, later on „Raskolnikow –Guilt and Atonement“- in other languages it was C&P. Anyway, the projection evokes a scene set in Russia in the late 19th century, and lets it happen.
The things we realize first- are the things we are familiar with. When unpacking the first layers of bubble foil of the fragrant wonder- most carefully packed and painstakingly well preserved for flight- I noticed a wave of iris essence that flooded my mind. Kruger’s bottle is a real gem…
But let’s not talk about notes now. From my youth on, I was heavily shortsighted and hated numbers and musical notes particularly, because I felt all looked the same; I could not play music from the sheet at all- but I cheated all my teachers because I went way around and memorized all the sequences of sounds, so I played not from the sheet but from my memory. This aversion has led me to an experiment I made years later, and it is based on two assumptions how a whole melody should be played:
The first is, play everything except the red ones- this produces nothing but impenetrable noise, even though the melody’s notes are missing and should be noticed- but no one can! The second is the melody; don’t say, anybody can play that. In my turn, for instance, I can’t. I won’t even see if a note is wrong. It is a part of Shostakovic’s Waltz No. 2, it fits for „Crime and Punishment“ and a stable Russian flair. All I can say, you definitely have captured it, and a long promising journey has started with step number one.
What else? I screwed off the cap of the Schott bottle and inhaled twice- and there they are: abalone waves of musk and orange, a bit tangerine&peach, suddenly templin and iris again, bit of hay and straw and horses, a hawk is flying from the cliff, a Fabergé egg in silver engraved and spotted with carmin red enamel, somewhere in the distance a steam locomotive rushes stomping and tooting- a Hereke silk carpet that shifts glows and colours depending how the light flows in and the angle you look at it, and yes, a crystal bottle in the sun, spreading a rainbow here and there, shift and vanish. Is this the real millefiori or just a vision? – Erhard, Austria