Japanese yuzu takes a dip in lily of the valley as a sprinkle of hyacinth steeped in jonquille tries to break onto the stage.
But, just when you’ve taken a fresh spritz, all of the discreet top notes that await you first have to pass through a thick cloud of rare Mongolian Musk.
A collision of Irian oud’s green cool and Mongolian Musk’s super earthy tenacity stirs on this tingling sensation in your gums—a tangible titillation that makes it more than just a smell.
This unique green-cool interplay that bursts through the cloud of musk is courtesy of an exceptional cast of Irian oud laced with precious walla patta composed around, not your typical lemon/citrus chord that opens most chypres, but a bouquet of flowers hovering around the fusion of yuzu and lily of the valley.
The heavy dose of vintage Mongolian Musk’s prism-like effect on the yuzu-hyacinth opening is tinged with a gentle sweetness blended with oakmoss and a montage of vintage sandalwood from Sultan Qaboos’ treasury.
Those who know something about musk ask me if I use the grains or the sack. It’s a fair question…… until you work with musk this old and potent, where you literally don’t know where the sack ends and the grains begin. If not for a few hairs you can hardly tell which side is the shell and which side the belly. (So, yes, both.)
The obscene amount of wild Irian and Sri Lankan oud in Chypre Sultan makes it the Gyrinops daddy of Oud Yusuf… who comes to the premier wearing an oceanic, aquamarine suit washed in vintage Mysore, tailored by the Sultan himself.
The distinct blast of Mongol Musk then projects the chypre’s zest and lifts the tantalizing profile and keeps it going for hours to enshroud you in a fragrant aura that penetrates whoever’s nose passes you—through both masks!
Tonight I’d like to spark a discussion on Chypre Sultan, which, in my opinion has been criminally ignored. This is easily the most seductive release from Ensar’s Atelier.
Approachable, yet still luxurious and unique; Chypre Sultan is shockingly seductive, and effortlessly cooling and comforting. This composition has been blended together as smooth as a fancy butter, but I’ll do my best to parse out my perceivable “notes”.
On top, I immediately experience a cooling, milky green Oud, which, according to Ensar’s description is a blend of Irian and Sri Lankan distillations... what’s perceivable is walla patta with all of the “cool green”, and none of the dark, dank bite. In addition to this Oud, I perceive a bitter citrus, akin to taking a bite out of yuzu pith.
In the heart, this perfume really shines: the white and yellow florals, the vintage sandalwood, and the mongolian musk lend an impossibly creamy texture to this green composition. Oakmoss, hyacinth and vetiver bring lush greenery into the fray as well.
Finally, in the drydown, the overdose of musk and walla patta plays itself out into an array of impossibly creamy, impossibly smooth, and endlessly calming light green auras projecting off of my skin.
I’ll say it again: CRIMINALLY ignored. This one gets a rare A+ from me. – Jono, USA